So here’s another cult product that gets my seal of approval, the pai Rosehip BioRegenerate Oil. After having run out of my Japanese komenuka rice bran oil, I went for this because I had heard great things about rosehip oil in general and this one in particular. For €22, the price was right, too!
Rosehip oil = retinol oil?
Off the top of my head, I think rosehip oil has a good rep for being particularly anti-aging containing a form of Vitamin A, Tretinoin, that delivers all the benefits of retinol but without the nasty side effects. For example, this post on StyleCaster extols the virtues of retinol oil as “more cosmetically elegant, consumer-friendly, and less-irritating” while being “a great choice for anyone with dry or sensitive skin.” And when I looked at the ingredients of some of the site’s recommendations, most seemed to derive their retinol from the Rosa Canina oil they contained. So in other words, rosehip oil, that’s where it’s at.
On the other hand, the German version of the online shop I purchased the oil from claims that pai has now recently managed to take out exactly that component from their product due to increased photosensitivity issues:
“Durch eine Optimierung der Inhaltsstoffe enthält die Pflege nun kein Vitamin A mehr, welches zu Sonnenempfindlichkeit führen kann.”
No word on that on the official website, though, so… *shrug*
However, since the pai oil is apparently won using a process called CO2 supercritical extraction, which is solvent-based, according to Colin’s Beauty Pages it really may not contain the highest levels of Vitamin A/Tretinoin out there. In contrast, cold-pressing is known to yield higher levels of the compound in rosehip oil. So that’s just something you might want to consider with this product.
Be that as it may, rosehip oil in general is still a great facial oil as it is rich in antioxidants and, more importantly, made up from mostly alpha-linoleic and linoleic acid which make it exceptionally suitable for sensitive skin. It is rich in fatty acids, which are great at boosting the skin’s natural moisture barrier and locking in moisture into the skin.
The pai oil is a bright orange color and smells musty and grassy, so not at all reminiscent of fragrant roses.
The bottle is made from milky white glass and comes with a dropper pipette. It’s not the most ideal kind of packaging and dispenser for an oil that is relatively unstable on contact with air and light. But I guess it looks nice?
The instructions recommend 2 – 3 drops on still damp skin, and that’s about right. I personally spritz on some essence – right now I use and love this – then immediately proceed with the oil by warming three drops of it up in between my palms, then pat, pat, pat it on all over.
The oil absorbs pretty fast and kind of takes the essence with it. With which I mean that it doesn’t take long until it’s all gone and my skin feels well nourished, moisturized and, yes, may I say it? rejuvenated.
I was a bit skeptical at first really, because just a few days after I’d started to use it I felt a bunch of cystic acne coming along on my chin. I quickly got them under control with my trusted 5% benzoyl peroxide gel so I didn’t exactly break out. But they were definitely coming and they looked big, and I was certain it was the pai Rosehip BioRegenerate Oil, because I’d changed nothing else in my routine and I’ve not been getting acne like that in a long time.
Despite all this, however, I continued to use the oil simply because I didn’t have time to think of an alternative at the moment. But luckily, nothing of the sort happened again afterward, so my skin takes this well after all.
To be honest, five months on my pregnancy glow was quickly fading and it left in its stead a marked sleep deprivation dullness. At the time I started using the pai Rosehip BioRegenerate Oil, I was looking older than ever. I lacked color and my fine lines were beginning to show more pronouncedly. At first, switching up oils didn’t change any of that. But now two weeks later, I find the radiance and glow have come back!
I really, really like how my skin looks right now. It’s more youthful again and looks better rested, more radiant and supple, and more healthy. As always, the changes are minimal, but I notice and I feel better about my looks than I did just a week prior.
Also, my skin feels moisturized with this and the essence on. I’ve cut down the steps and those two really are the only things I use after cleansing, so that’s a quick routine yet effective. Last night, it was time for my regular BHA at night. But instead of exfoliating, I felt my usual routine would yield better results – so in an unexpected turn of events I currently prefer essence + oil over exfoliation, and that says something!
I’m pretty satisfied with the pai Rosehip BioRegenerate Oil, but now having done my research might consider trying another rosehip oil next time to see whether higher levels of Tretinoin won’t yield even better results. Until then, I’m very happy about the pai’s moisturizing and barrier repairing capabilities, and that along with a bit of essence it delivers everything my skin needs.